Italian
From Ngorongoro to Lake Natron
It’s still dark when I wake up. I step out of the tent and hear the cries of a few hyenas searching for food. The sky is magnificent, and it’s easy to spot the Big Dipper, Orion’s Belt, and the Pleiades. Then, as soon as the first light of dawn begins to appear, the doves—right on time—start their songs, each species with its own unique sound. Inevitably, my mind goes back to when I was a child, and the doves’ cooing was my wake-up call. Then my father would urge me to get up, and outside the tent, the coffee—and for me, the milk—would be boiling over the glowing coals. A new day of adventure in the land of Africa was beginning. These are the experiences that shaped me and for which I am endlessly grateful.
Today the journey is long. We’ll be heading east, passing through the Ngorongoro caldera where we’ll stop for the night before continuing to Lake Natron.
The road is very busy, especially at the entrance to the national park, which attracts many tourists. We’ve already been here, but a short stop is a must.
I believe there are few places on Earth where such a contained geographic area holds such diverse morphologies and landscapes as the Ngorongoro Reserve. It includes valleys, canyons, mountains, rivers, fissures, erosion zones, lakes, peaks, and craters—including a caldera roughly 18 kilometers in diameter. And that’s exactly where we are headed. Inside this caldera, one of the most spectacular on the planet, there is another incredible microcosm made up of springs flowing from the crater walls, forests, saltwater pools, Lake Makadi, and inhabited by Africa’s most iconic animals. A steep embankment—once a difficult trail—takes us to the center of the caldera. The lake level is high due to recent rains, and everything around it is marshland. From a distance, we can spot antelopes, buffaloes, elephants, some beautiful crowned cranes, and… two magnificent rhinoceroses. There are no giraffes here, as they wouldn’t be able to climb the steep walls of the caldera.
By evening, we reach the beautiful and modern Ngorongoro Coffee Lodge, located within a lush tropical garden with a large pool of crystal-clear water. What could be better than a relaxing swim after hours and hours of off-roading?
We set off at dawn the next day toward Lake Natron. The road is long, and the last few kilometers will be quite challenging due to the rough track conditions. Gradually, the landscape changes, becoming more arid, then almost desert-like, with scattered bushes and the occasional umbrella acacia.
We’re traveling along the northeastern edge of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, and around 11 a.m., we get a clear view of the majestic Ol Doinyo Lengai, the “Mountain of God” in the Maasai language.
This stunning volcano (estimated to be 370,000 years old) has a unique feature. Its lava has a very low temperature, never exceeding 500°C (normal lava ranges between 800 and 1200°C), and its eruptions produce dark, fluid lava precisely due to the low heat. Over thousands of years, numerous underground springs rich in salt have created an expansive area at the volcano’s base with an intense red hue and white streaks: Lake Natron.
We reach our tented camp—small but cozy—just in time for lunch. Unfortunately, the news is not good. It has rained heavily, so we won’t be able to witness the unique characteristics of this lake, which during the dry season transforms completely!
Seeing it in this season is usually magical because of the lack of water and the drought, but the unexpected rains have changed the landscape.
This time of year, nature usually offers one of the most unique sceneries on planet Earth. At 600 meters above sea level, Lake Natron spans about 60 kilometers in width and has a depth of just over three meters. Its depth varies greatly depending on droughts, heat, scarce rainfall, and strong evaporation. During many months of the year, the waters recede and most of the surface turns into a thick salt crust.
Its waters have an intense reddish color with white streaks due to calcium content and are highly alkaline, with a very high pH—so much so that they’re caustic. That’s why people say the lake “petrifies” animals. In reality, if an animal ventures into the lake, it may die, but the high concentration of sodium carbonate decahydrate—natron—prevents decomposition. So it’s as if the poor creatures were mummified or petrified, leaving strange, statue-like shapes on the shores. The Egyptians already knew of natron and used it for embalming. At the same time, this lake is the preferred site for millions of flamingos who, safe from predators that wouldn’t dare enter the water, come here to reproduce from all over East Africa. The natural protection on their legs and beaks keeps them safe from the water’s causticity. They build their nests on the dry parts of the lake and feed on the abundant algae (specifically, the microalga Spirulina Platensis) that contains carotene, which gives their feathers a brilliant pink color. “You’ll be able to see the flamingos, but not the stunning scenery the lake offers during dry seasons,” the guide says. “It’s rained a lot, the water levels are high, and the flamingos are farther away.”
A bit disappointed, we still reach the lake’s shores, populated by thousands and thousands of flamingos and pelicans. It’s the highest concentration in all of Africa. Unfortunately, they’re far off, but with binoculars, we can still admire their full beauty. In any case, this place holds a special charm for me.
Maybe it’s because I love volcanoes, lava fields, deserts. I would love to reach the summit of Ol Doinyo Lengai, the “Mountain of God“, but a special arrangement would be needed to make the climb at night and, at dawn, witness the dark lava bubbling beneath while overlooking the endless lands of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area!
It’s time to head back. Tomorrow evening we’ll be in Italy, our eyes filled with wonders, enriched by new experiences… and ready for the next adventure!
